I recently needed to visit Los Angeles (LA) for a short stay. It was an expensive outing but it had to be done writes Malcolm Ginsberg.
The choice was British Airways (BA), a fine flight on time but with the old 777 Business Class seats, considered ahead of their time when first introduced over ten years ago but now dated. With eight abreast the window seats are not easy to get into and for those on the aisle you have no privacy with cabin staff and passengers passing by. One feels exposed.
BA is now rolling out a competitive new Suite product and is back to offering a full meal service rather than the restricted pandemic-time menu. (See last week’s BTN with an update of British Airways Club Suites.)
At Heathrow T5 the airline has a large Galleries lounge in the south end of the building, another smaller version, at the north end plus a further reduced edition on the B annex, but nothing at the C concourse.
Landing early, ESTA immigration and customs was really quick, unlike my first visit to Los Angeles Airport (LAX), the former President still the Governor at the time, his image staring down at us as we queued for three hours! 
Last time, December 2019, (See ON TOUR: BTN goes on Air Force One) I took in the Ronald Reagan Presidential Foundation & Institute whose web page (at the time of writing then) was headed by an image of the former President out riding with the late Queen Elizabeth.
My report noted the aircraft collection and suggested that a McDonnell Douglas (BAe) AV-8B Harrier II be added to the display when they are finally withdrawn from service in 2023. Delivery would be no problem. The museum is 50 miles north of LA.
This time around my visit was for just two nights with the business of the day taking just a couple of hours. I overnighted, then it was off to Beverly Hills for lunch at the Rooftop by JG in the Waldorf Astoria, on a perfect summer’s day. This was outstanding with wonderfully presented food and a marvellous view, in the distance Mount Lee and the famed Hollywood Sign. Now nearly 100 years old it was first erected in 1923, originally read ‘HOLLYWOODLAND’ to promote the name of a new housing development in the hills above the Hollywood district of LA.
The Rooftop is clearly the ‘in place’ to dine at this time in Beverly Hills. 
From Rodeo Drive, one of the world’s great shopping streets, it’s about five minutes’ drive. (Nobody walks – but it would take much the same time!)
Brunch was from 10:00 (no breakfast – this is LA) and I was tempted to try the large pool also on the top 14th floor. It set me up nicely.
For the Rooftop the prices are what you would expect. (Dollar price in bracket) French Fries (15). Lobster Burger (41) including Shrimp, Gruyère Cheese, Green Chili Dressing, Yuzu Pickles. Cobb Salad (39) plus Grilled Chicken, Blue Cheese Dressing, Bacon, Sucrine, Avocado, Eggs, Sweet Onion, Cucumber, Snow Peas, Sunburn Tomato. This can be followed by Sour Cherry Pie & Pistachio Ice Cream (19). A glass of wine starts at $22 and one has to add 15% service. Our modest bill for lunch for two (including some vino) came at just under $200. And if you want to visit the spa a customised Waldorf Astoria massage is available at $260.
The mention of Rodeo Drive must also include The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills. Touted as the “Mecca for cheese aficionados”, the shop has a selection of more than 500 different types of cheeses selected by long-time owner Norbert Wabnig. The selection was overwhelming, but the staff friendly and knowledgeable. Prices were more to my taste (sorry about that) and my selection was something to take home and enjoy.
What to do for the afternoon was the question?
Descanso Gardens was suggested, 15 miles north of the city near Pasadena, something very different with a historical connotation. It is best visited if you have a hire car. It’s not really on the tourist map, but should be. What you see today is a fine 150-acre oasis in a quality residential area La Cañada Flintridge, Los Angeles County. Its history is fascinating.
In 1937, the property was purchased by E. Manchester Boddy, owner of The Los Angeles Illustrated Daily News, and managed as a working ranch, which he called Rancho del Descanso. He built a two-storey mansion of 22 rooms, designed by Beverly Hills architect James E. Dolena. He also acquired more than 400 acres north of the original property, the source of mountain streams that provide water for Descanso Gardens today. In 1942, when people of Japanese ancestry were forced into internment camps following the attack on Pearl Harbour, Boddy purchased up to 100,000 camellia plants from two Japanese-owned nurseries in the San Gabriel Valley run by his friends, the Uyematsu and Yoshimura families, in their honour producing a lovely Japanese garden.
In 1953, Boddy sold this property to Los Angeles County. Perched high above the Descanso Gardens landscape on the crest of a hill, the historic Boddy House offers a glimpse of a glamorous bygone era.
Today local volunteers form the Descanso Gardens Guild which manages all garden operations in a public/private partnership with Los Angeles County.
Descanso Gardens features a mostly forested wide area, with artificial streams, ponds and lawns. They have a wide collection of fruit trees, including orange, peach, pear, pomegranate, crab-apple, fruits of the genus prunus, grapes and passionfruit.
No visit to Descanso Gardens is complete without a visit to the Sturt Haaga Gallery.
Rotating exhibits throughout the year seek to illuminate the intersection between contemporary arts and the sciences represented by the garden – botany, horticulture, biology, ecology, conservation, and the study of gardens as cultural artifacts.
You will need about three hours for a slow tour of the gardens, parking is no problem, and the café offers a splendid afternoon tea. Entry is $15, with seniors, students and children gaining a discount.
